Sugar spoon


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Do you take sugar in your tea?” we were taught to ask. It was the 1950s and in Belsize Park coffee had not yet become a regular morning drink. It was never seen in the afternoon. Tea was made in a teapot, with leaves and water from a kettle that blew steam to a height of 18 inches. It was the drink that cheered but did not inebriate. Or, “My God, I need a cup of tea,” as Mum would sigh on entering the house.

The battered tin sugar spoon was always in the sugar bowl, which never matched anything else, perhaps because it was so often broken and replaced. A variable cook and an atrocious housekeeper, Mum did love tea and teatime. So we did, too. One of our favourite reading books was Grey Rabbit Gives A Party by Alison Uttley. For Mum, just like Grey Rabbit, whom she resembled more than a little, a party was always a tea party. I can still hear her voice breaking with excitement and pleasure “Shall we have a party?” The next step might be to haul out Concerning Cake-Making or the awe-inspiring red tome of Constance Spry, aprons, mixing bowls, weights and the other archetypal spoon in our house: the oversized tablespoon which we always without fail used to measure a spoonful of flour or sugar. I have it now, and it is too large for recipes, but it shows as she would have said, a generous nature.

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